Vairy Nice! Thanks for the details.

-Tom


63' Monza Spyder Convertable (in process) MY Build Thread
65' Monza MY Build Thread
73' NovaSS 454 Big block (Sold)
86' BMW 325es
98' VW Jetta TDI, for daughter
01' Audi Allroad Stage 3 twin turbo
67' UltraVan 211 "Violet"
NFCC, UMCC
Grand Island, NY

I'm very interested in buying a complete kit. Mine is driver and I want more reliability.
Once you have a price let me know.
Thanks for all your hard work on this.

Doug
65 Monza
Cincy, OH

Have you thought about just the adjuster and leaving out the spacer ring? You would have to modify the spring but it would look closer to stock and be a lot less work to make.

Joel
Northlake, TX
5 Ultravans, 113 Corvairs and counting...

joelsplace Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Have you thought about just the adjuster and leaving out the spacer ring? You would have to modify the spring but it would look closer to stock and be a lot less work to make.


Less work to make, but more work for the guy buying it.
What is the point of buying a kit to reduce the pump pressure, if you need to do the reducing yourself.
The adjustment is what the kit is ALL about.The kit eliminates the trial and ERROR part of cutting and fitting a spring. (Multiple times!)

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WA. state, 1 mile south of the Canadian border,
I am not at the end of the world, but you can see it from here.
Have; '66 Monza Coupe - 140, 4-spd. Daily driver beater
'67 Monza Vert. - 140, 4-spd. Daily driver beater
'67 A/C Moredoor Monza
Have had; '61 Monza coupe, 80hp, PG
'62 Monza Wagon, 4spd.
'63 Spyder,
'65 Corsa
.
non-vair
'04 Dodge Cummins Quad Dually, approaching 400K
'03 Honda Del Sol
17'Terry



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/29/2020 08:32AM by American Mel.

The five screws on a stock pump often become loose because of compression, shrinkage, old age of the three rubber membranes. By running your screws in from the bottom into your spacer ring, it looks like you may have to remove the pump in order to tighten those screws.

I'm thinking the screw heads should be counter sunk below the spacer surface and five new offset holes for the top cover. Or, five even longer screws running through the entire assembly.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/29/2020 09:37AM by Richard.

joelsplace Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Have you thought about just the adjuster and leaving out the spacer ring? You would have to modify the spring but it would look closer to stock and be a lot less work to make.

I like leaving the spring alone and having the adjustment range and ability to go back to stock.

Richard Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> The five screws on a stock pump often become loose because of compression, shrinkage, old age of the three rubber membranes. By running your screws in from the bottom into your spacer ring, it looks like you may have to remove the pump in order to tighten those screws.
>
> I'm thinking the screw heads should be counter sunk below the spacer surface and five new offset holes for the top cover. Or, five even longer screws running through the entire assembly.

Thanks but I have already considered both of those and figured that anyone with my kit could make those mods later if they wanted by drilling out the holes one step further and through-bolting and/or adding extra holes and some countersinking.

Now I'm working on clear anodizing the rings. Will do my first one tomorrow after a few test runs today.

Dave W. / Gilbert Arizona
65 Corsa 140/4
66 Corsa 140/4
66 Corsa 140/4 w/factory A/C
66 Corsa 455 Toro V8
65 Monza Convertible 110/4
66 Monza Convertible 140/4 A/C
65 Monza 4DR 140/PG w/factory A/C
65 Monza 4DR EJ20T/5

I guess you could sell it with a modified spring. I don't see an issue with messing with the spring one time and then being able to dial it in with the adjustment. The problem I have is having to take it off a dozen times to fool around with the spring and then settling with "close enough".

Joel
Northlake, TX
5 Ultravans, 113 Corvairs and counting...

joelsplace Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> I guess you could sell it with a modified spring. I don't see an issue with messing with the spring one time and then being able to dial it in with the adjustment. The problem I have is having to take it off a dozen times to fool around with the spring and then settling with "close enough".


EXACTLY ! ! ![/size
Why even modify then spring once ? ? ?
THAT is the whole point of Dave's kit!
Install it once. NO MODS to the spring.
Then you just use an Allen wrench to adjust as needed.
Easy Peasy Lemon Squeasy!

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WA. state, 1 mile south of the Canadian border,
I am not at the end of the world, but you can see it from here.
Have; '66 Monza Coupe - 140, 4-spd. Daily driver beater
'67 Monza Vert. - 140, 4-spd. Daily driver beater
'67 A/C Moredoor Monza
Have had; '61 Monza coupe, 80hp, PG
'62 Monza Wagon, 4spd.
'63 Spyder,
'65 Corsa
.
non-vair
'04 Dodge Cummins Quad Dually, approaching 400K
'03 Honda Del Sol
17'Terry

So it is easier to take the pump off to install the kit vs clipping the spring?

Joel
Northlake, TX
5 Ultravans, 113 Corvairs and counting...

I don't know how difficult fuel pumps are to change in TX. but around here, they are pretty easy, and fairly quick to pop in and out.
Seems to me that it would be easier to pop it out and install the kit (once), than to do multiple trial and error adjustments to the spring.
And then what do you do if you assemble it for the eighth time, only to find that you have now clipped it too much?
My local hardware store does not sell "Spring Extenders".
Just sharing my thoughts, but, if you like the idea of clipping springs, go right ahead.

-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-
WA. state, 1 mile south of the Canadian border,
I am not at the end of the world, but you can see it from here.
Have; '66 Monza Coupe - 140, 4-spd. Daily driver beater
'67 Monza Vert. - 140, 4-spd. Daily driver beater
'67 A/C Moredoor Monza
Have had; '61 Monza coupe, 80hp, PG
'62 Monza Wagon, 4spd.
'63 Spyder,
'65 Corsa
.
non-vair
'04 Dodge Cummins Quad Dually, approaching 400K
'03 Honda Del Sol
17'Terry

I think you missed this post:
" I don't see an issue with messing with the spring one time and then being able to dial it in with the adjustment. The problem I have is having to take it off a dozen times to fool around with the spring and then settling with "close enough". "

Joel
Northlake, TX
5 Ultravans, 113 Corvairs and counting...

Update:

Now that I can anodize these parts I'm almost ready to offer a few for sale. I'll build up a few complete pump assemblies that are tested and ready to install. Details soon for those who have inquired.


A simple home anodizing process requires the bath solution temperature to remain within 60-75F for at least an hour and that is tough when my garage has been over 100 or more all summer. The oxidizing process also heats the solution depending on how many amps you are using. With the help of a cold water bath around the pail I was able to do some parts this weekend when the morning temps were only in the 80's.

Photo shows;

-Polished aluminum with no anodizing. This one looks nice but will not keep that shine without polishing in the future.

-Polished then anodized. Satin finish overall and gives a very slightly milky appearance compared to bare polished.

-Glass bead blasted then anodized. Probably the best match to the other pump component castings if you want to hide this modification to your pump.

Bright anodizing is not something I will be attempting at home. It had far too many nasty ingredients. I'm sure someone will ask if I can do colors and I'm sure I could if I purchased the dyes but I'd rather not.

Dave W. / Gilbert Arizona
65 Corsa 140/4
66 Corsa 140/4
66 Corsa 140/4 w/factory A/C
66 Corsa 455 Toro V8
65 Monza Convertible 110/4
66 Monza Convertible 140/4 A/C
65 Monza 4DR 140/PG w/factory A/C
65 Monza 4DR EJ20T/5

Beautiful workmanship asalways!

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