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Oil leak at oil pump
Posted by: corvairsince70 ()
Date: March 22, 2020 05:40PM

I continue to have oil seeping past the oil pump idler shaft that is pressed into the rear housing. Years ago I just put Permatex #2 on the visible end of the shaft and stopped the leaks. Doesn't seem like anything I do works now. I have removed the idler shaft and put Permatex #2 on the shaft as I press it back into the housing. Still leaks.
I am looking for someplace to buy custom dowel pins I can use for this shaft and would get it slightly oversized. Stock measures 2.125" x 0.479.
Any ideas???

Dennis
Nashville area
'68 Conv 140 PG - - - '66 Monza 110 PG
'66 Corsa Conv 180 - - - '66 Corsa 140

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Re: Oil leak at oil pump
Posted by: steve c goodman ()
Date: March 22, 2020 06:02PM

Most repair the leak by cleaning exposed 'nub' then coating over the pin and round casting point with JB Weld or epoxy.

best wishes, Steve
Rear Engine Spec. Inc. Golden, Colo.

1962 spyder 3.0L turbo---1965 Crown V8
1967 monza 110/4---1968 monza 110/4
1971 amante gt 110/4
CORSA/RMC/PPCC/V8 Registry



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/22/2020 06:03PM by steve c goodman.

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Re: Oil leak at oil pump
Posted by: goatsnvairs ()
Date: March 22, 2020 06:06PM

If you're willing to try one more time, maybe "The Right Stuff"? I had a Riviera trans pan that just wouldn't stop leaking but this stuff worked. Parts need to be alcohol clean, and after assy no oil for 24 hours.
That being said, if tolerance is too much you may need an oversized dowel or different housing.

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Re: Oil leak at oil pump
Posted by: dryenko ()
Date: March 22, 2020 06:57PM

Clean it spotless and install with red Loctite.

Bob C aka Dryenko
Dobson, NC 27017

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Re: Oil leak at oil pump
Posted by: Mojan_n ()
Date: March 22, 2020 08:41PM

JB weld.

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Re: Oil leak at oil pump
Posted by: REM654DPG ()
Date: March 22, 2020 08:56PM

Dennis, I think the best way to seal this oil pump shaft is to weld a cap plug on the outside. That’s a guaranteed fix but I know not everyone has the ability to do this. You’ll find that if you apply a little heat to the surrounding boss of the shaft you can literally just tap it out. Most of them are installed with such little interference fit that they almost fall out when you heat up the housing and that’s why they are so susceptible to leaking.

You cannot always stop a pressure leak by sealing it from the outside. It might stop for a while but sooner or later it will find its way through the glob of sealer. As Bob mentioned, using Loctite from the inside is the next best way to seal this shaft and usually works if the fit is good, but there’s always a chance long term that it could leak again.

When using the welded cap method, you first want to make sure the shaft is not worn. If so, it should be replaced. Then you have to shorten the shaft accordingly since the plug (about .060 thick) will prevent the shaft from sitting below the cover when you weld it in the housing. If you get everything measured and ready you can just drop the shaft in the hole right after you weld the plug in and you’re done.

This is also an opportune time to resurface the floor of the pump gear housing if you have the ability to do so but it’s not always necessary.

Regan Metcalf
Portland, OR

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Re: Oil leak at oil pump
Posted by: nirvairna ()
Date: March 22, 2020 09:07PM

Regan wrote: This is also an opportune time to resurface the floor of the pump gear housing if you have the ability to do so but it’s not always necessary.


Can you explain how this is done?

thank you

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Re: Oil leak at oil pump
Posted by: REM654DPG ()
Date: March 23, 2020 08:22AM

This operation is done on my Bridgeport EZ Trak mill that has a feature for milling circles from a specific center point. I mount the housing to a flat plate that’s bolted to an angle plate on the mill table and proceed from there.

I haven’t tried it yet but if you have a ratcheting boring head that step cuts from an inside to outside diameter that should work as well on a conventional manual milling machine.

Regan Metcalf
Portland, OR

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Re: Oil leak at oil pump
Posted by: The Stig ()
Date: March 23, 2020 08:41AM

Very nice work Regan! I picked up a housing someone had done this on at the toss many years ago. Installed on an engine that went into a car I long sold, but it was neat to have. No leaks!

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Re: Oil leak at oil pump
Posted by: 1STLM ()
Date: March 23, 2020 09:10AM

Regan, is this a service you are willing to provide? I am suspect that I also have a pump shaft leak, after using JB Weld. I now have a spare rear housing that I could ship (after cleaning up!). Do you also mill the cover surface to restore the pump cavity depth?

Brice

66 Corsa Turbo Convertible

Bozeman, Montana

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Re: Oil leak at oil pump
Posted by: Timothy Shortle ()
Date: March 23, 2020 04:58PM

I agree with all the comments but especially on the "nice work Regan".
I suspect if you are willing to offer up this service (now that you have retired) you would have something more to work on (as if you are not busy enough these days).

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Re: Oil leak at oil pump
Posted by: REM654DPG ()
Date: March 23, 2020 09:45PM

Thanks Stig & Timothy, I am blessed to have the equipment to do this stuff and a place for it too but unfortunately I am not retired yet. Few more years to go, but right now I’m in the middle of remodeling my wifes craft, sewing, quilting room and it has literally consumed all my spare time. I have to almost sneak out to my shop to work on Corvair stuff (not really) but once I get this room finished I’m good to go. Only problem there is I already have a few irons in the fire and then I sneak in a 4 spider diff here and there but it’s all good.

Brice, to answer your question – yes I can provide this service but honestly not for a while yet as mentioned above if you’re willing to wait. The complete job does include milling the top gasket surface after the floor is cut to ensure they’re both parallel and to set the correct for the height for the gears. And, you do want to make sure that the gear housing in your core isn’t too worn on the walls as some can be pretty bad so check that first.

I also will detail the gears and make sure they’re both exactly the same height and then I’ll open up and port all the oil passages in the housing for better flow. Once that’s all done, I’ll flat sand the gasket surface on my granite plate until it’s all flat. It’s a lot of work and time but this housing is really the heart of the engine and oil flow is a good thing. Hope that answers your questions. Thanks again guys,

Regan Metcalf
Portland, OR

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