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HELP!: Clearance problem installing 68 steering box, coupler and column in 65 hot smiley
Posted by: ihscomputers ()
Date: January 12, 2020 01:54PM

Test fitting the 68 steering column, coupler and box in the 65 coupe and the coupler hits the frame.

Installed 4 washers between the box and frame rail helped but not enough as it still hits at the top edge and now hits the side of the trunk.

Does anyone know if the frame rails were clearanced from 67 thru 69?

Suggestions or known solutions?





Dean F. Gemberling
Columbus, Georgia


1963 Rampside w/305 V8 - Built by Ken Arnold in 1998

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Re: HELP!: Clearance problem installing 68 steering box, coupler and column in 65 hot smiley
Posted by: Lane66m ()
Date: January 12, 2020 02:39PM

Put a Flaming River collapsible shaft in there. Seth has good deals for them. My 66 had 63 box with a PO modified shaft to fit coupler at the panel. I replaced with the collapsible shaft.

Al Lane
Ellabell, GA 31308

1966 Monza Coupe, 110 hp, 4 Spd
1966 Monza More Door 110 hp, PG
1968 Camaro SS Coupe 350 CI 295+ hp PG
1964 Greenbrier Deluxe, 6 dr, 80 hp car engine, PG
1947 Farmall A tractor 15 hp





Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/12/2020 02:42PM by Lane66m.

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Re: HELP!: Clearance problem installing 68 steering box, coupler and column in 65 hot smiley
Posted by: texas yenko dude ()
Date: January 12, 2020 03:03PM

The frame is clearanced. Pics sent via cell

Texas YENKO Dude
YS-070
YS-199
YS-320
Southeast of Disorder


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Re: HELP!: Clearance problem installing 68 steering box, coupler and column in 65 hot smiley
Posted by: ihscomputers ()
Date: January 12, 2020 03:20PM

Thanks texas yenko dude!!

Here are the photos that he sent that show the clearanced frame rail.

No wonder it won't work...







Dean F. Gemberling
Columbus, Georgia


1963 Rampside w/305 V8 - Built by Ken Arnold in 1998

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Re: HELP!: Clearance problem installing 68 steering box, coupler and column in 65 hot smiley
Posted by: Mike Stillwell ()
Date: January 12, 2020 03:53PM

Learn something new every day. Thank you, gentlemen!

Mike
YS-117

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Re: HELP!: Clearance problem installing 68 steering box, coupler and column in 65 hot smiley
Posted by: jjohnsonjo ()
Date: January 12, 2020 04:12PM

My bother and I learned the hard way about the different trans mounts between 3 and 4 speed on an EM.

J.O.

65 Corsa Turbo Vert
79 Honda XL 500S
69 Honda CL 160 D
2010 BMW F 650 GS
2003 Bounder 36D
2013 KIA Optima SX turbo-AKA ZIPPY (wife,s car)
69 Newport Holiday Sailboat
Baja 150 dune buggy cart
Coleman HS 500 UTV
2016 KIA Sorento SXL Turbo

Bethlehem,Pa


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Re: HELP!: Clearance problem installing 68 steering box, coupler and column in 65 hot smiley
Posted by: ihscomputers ()
Date: January 15, 2020 04:43AM

I consulted with well-known Corvair expert, Seth Emerson, who graciously supplied his expert recommendations.

Below you will find Seth's side of our PM conversation for those of you interested in the solution to this problem.

NOTES:
1.) I plan to use the 5/8-36 x 3/4"-DD u-joint and will post the results on this thread.

2.) This solution is for those trying to fit the 67-69 steering coupler to a LM (mine is an "early" 65) that does NOT have the clearanced frame rail

Dean - You could replace that coupler with a U-joint. They are smaller that the stamped coupler. You have two choices. Both U-joints would have a 5/8"-36 spline on one side. The commonly available one would place a 3/4-DD on the other end. You would remove the complete coupler assembly and grind both sides of the 3/4" shaft at the end of the column (After all the coupler stuff is removed, what is left is a bare shaft with a hole through it). You would grind two flats on either side of the shaft to emulate a 3/4" DD, and assemble it. Another option would be to buy a U-joint with a 3/4" round end. You would drill across the end of the U-joint and re-install the pin into the assembly. Unfortunately, the hole is "just" larger than 3/8", so a 3/8" bolt is not a good option. Sometimes even the U-joints can hit. The installation of the Flaming River box used a 1" DD U-joint at the bottom. The bolts on those larger joints almost always hit the frame rail. The 1"DD joint is much larger than the 3/4" DD units. Let me know if you have more questions. – Seth
…………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………..
Dean - I will go out to the shop today and check out the length of the U-joint vs. the coupler. If the length is exact, then the cross-drilled pin replacement is best. If not, then the method of grinding the two flats to make a 3/4" DD is best, because it allows you to adjust and lock the shaft at the correct length for the U-joint. I might have the 5/8"-36 to 3/4" DD joint. I know I do not have a 5/8"-36 to 3/4 round Joint (for the pin replacement It should be a regular joint option from Borgeson or Flaming River. I will check. – Seth
…………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………..
The two recommended u-joints:

Here is a 5/8"-36 to round: [www.appliedracing.com]
And a 5/8" x 36 to 3/4" DD: [www.amazon.com]
Borgeson make high quality stuff. They are on the East Coast, too. – Seth
……………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………..
Dean - Either one will work. I measured the assembled stock coupler at about 3", maybe 3.25" That is the length of most of the U-joints. It depends on what you want to do.
If you buy the smooth bore, you will have to cross-drill the smooth bore end. Some already come with a threaded lock screw, which you could remove and just through bore to press-in the stock pin. I would not use the supplied screw as the rotation lock. GM thought the pin was needed. A solid pin, just bigger that 3/8" diameter - measure your pin and drill to match, It might be a certain millimeter diameter.
I would do it this way:
1) Measure the pin when you remove it. It's the last thing on the tip of the column after everything is removed.
2) find the matching size drill.
3) Drill through one-side of the u-joint in the center.
4) Slide the U-joint into place on the column, insert the drill through the hole, with the tip of the drill going through the side of the joint and the hole in the shaft.
5) Drill out the other side, using the shaft as the drill guide.
6) press the original pin back into place! It should be nice and tight.
If you buy the 3/4" DD one, you will have to grind down each side of the shaft tip - for about 1" long - the final width across the flats will be about .550", but grind to fit. it should be as tight as possible.
Then slide on the U-Joint, make sure the shaft doesn't extend too far and hit the center piece of the joint. With a marker, put a dot in the center of both lock screw holes, where the screw will hit.
Remove the U-joint and drill a shallow hole (just a small indent) where the screws will hit.
When you do the final assembly, make sure the U-joint screws and their lock-nuts get Loctite locking fluid.

STAY TUNED...smiling bouncing smiley

Dean F. Gemberling
Columbus, Georgia


1963 Rampside w/305 V8 - Built by Ken Arnold in 1998

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Re: HELP!: Clearance problem installing 68 steering box, coupler and column in 65 hot smiley
Posted by: ihscomputers ()
Date: January 18, 2020 05:41PM

Purchased the Borgeson 5/8-36 x 3/4" DD U-joint from Summit Racing

Pressed out the pin from the end of the steering shaft

Placed the steering column in the vise and supported the heavy end from the ceiling

Made a template using the instructions from the Ididit video

Ground the two sides flat using an angle grinder

Pressed the pin back into the end of the shaft until it was flush with one side, then cut off the other end and smoothed both sides up

Installed the u-joint onto the steering box

Installed the column, u-joint and steering box into the car for a test fit and confirmed smooth operation

Made marks on the shaft through the lock screw holes (I put a dab of red grease on the ends of the lock screws and bottomed them out against the shaft)

Removed the shaft, u-joint and steering box

Drilled the indents into the shaft, then test fitted the u-joint to the shaft to confirm no movement of the shaft inside the u-joint

Installed the steering column, u-joint and steering box, tightened up the lock screws and verified smooth operation and no interference with the frame rail

When it is time to perform the final installation, then the Loctitie will be applied to the lock screws lock nuts per Seth's instructions
















Dean F. Gemberling
Columbus, Georgia


1963 Rampside w/305 V8 - Built by Ken Arnold in 1998

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