Today I was driving my rampside down a fairly flat straight road in third gear going 25 mph. There was suddenly a loud clank from the transaxle area and then it continued moving. I continued driving and stopped at the next red Light. When I tried to get going I had no gears at all (including reverse). It feels like it catches a little bit but then nothing. After being towed home I discovered that when in any gear and turned off you can push it around. Occasionally it will catch and turn the engine some, but mostly there is no resistance from the transaxle. Any ideas before I pull the engine? Would it be the diff or the transmission? It’s a three speed. One side note: I noticed the last few days when making right turns there would be a slight lurch and a clunk in the rear end. Then it would drive perfectly fine until I needed to make another right. I tried brake adjustments (actually what I was test driving for) and tightening the u-joint saddles neither of which seemed to make any difference.

Carlisle Pennsylvania
--
1962 Corvair 95 Rampside
1983 Chevy C-10

After playing with it some more it seems like if I don’t let the clutch out all the way I can get it to roll some but there is a loud clank when it starts to grab. If I let the clutch out all the way it’s very noisy and moves intermittently which eventually causes it to stall.

Carlisle Pennsylvania
--
1962 Corvair 95 Rampside
1983 Chevy C-10

Pull brake/block wheels then with engine
running place into 1st gear and look at
pass side U-joint yoke, the piece at the
end of the axle and see if it is turning
along with the U-joint. If so the splines
in U-joint/axle yoke have worn away.

Worser possiblity is spider/axle gears
in diff but the yoke wear problem is
pretty common. your description of
grabbing then nothing does sound more
towards the spider gears though.

Good luck on being the
easier.

best wishes, Steve
Rear Engine Spec. Inc. Golden, Colo.

1962 spyder 3.0L turbo---1965 Crown V8
1967 monza 110/4---1968 monza 110/4
1971 amante gt 110/4
CORSA/RMC/PPCC



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/06/2019 02:46PM by steve c goodman.

What you describe is classic spider gears. But like Steve says there is a slight possibility of the axle yoke but your description doesn't point that way.

Ken Hand
Handy Car Care
248 613 8586

Vairmech@aol.com

After some thought and reading Kens' reply
I should have reversed my two ideas.

Probably is more chance for axle/spider
gears and less towards yoke/spline
failure.

With that in mind using my idea of
E-brake and blocking wheels might not
be the best idea. I suppose just
killing engine would be normal but if
you try this test have someone in car
with foot on brake too, can't be too
cautious/safe.

best wishes, Steve
Rear Engine Spec. Inc. Golden, Colo.

1962 spyder 3.0L turbo---1965 Crown V8
1967 monza 110/4---1968 monza 110/4
1971 amante gt 110/4
CORSA/RMC/PPCC

I got a chance today to test it. The axles appear to be ok, so unfortunatly it looks like I will be pulling the engine tomorrow after all. Do I need to remove the carburators and/or oil filler tube when pulling the engine? Anything else I need to remove other than wiring, fuel line, throttle, shift linkage, clutch linkage, axles, heater hoses, and cooling system intake hose?

Carlisle Pennsylvania
--
1962 Corvair 95 Rampside
1983 Chevy C-10

I usually leave the carbs. and oil filler tube on. The tube is tight but doable. I always remove the bottom 2 bellhousing bolts before lowering.

'29 Ford Model A Tudor
'61 700 Lakewood 110 4 speed
'69 Monza Convert. 140 Auto.
'70 Dodge Challenger R/T 440 4 speed

Been aircooled since 1973
Northwest Ohio

Actually save yourself the aggravation and drain the oil and remove the fill tube. I agree on removing the bottom 2 bellhousing bolts first. That also depends on what you use to remove the drive train. Have a couple of round flashers on hand to put in the axle yoke seals.

Ken Hand
Handy Car Care
248 613 8586

Vairmech@aol.com

Engine and transaxle are out. Unfortunately it got too dark to see so I didn't get a chance to finish taking them apart, however when I removed the axles some gear teeth came out with the fluid in the differential. The axle splines all look good. Im assuming the teeth are from the spider gears. I understand I can get a fully rebuilt differential for $800, a good used one for $90, or rebuild it for somewhere in between. Which would you do? Not that it was difficult to remove the engine, but I don't really want to do it in the same Corvair again anytime soon so I'm leaning towards having it rebuilt or purchasing a fully rebuilt one.

Carlisle Pennsylvania
--
1962 Corvair 95 Rampside
1983 Chevy C-10

What would I do? I would pay a Ken Hand/Steve Goodman to set me up. Not that I am incapable, but rather
others have MUCH more experience/shop/tools for doing this job. Ken is closer to Pennsylvania.

Right, if you are going to have to purchase a replacement unit or have your rebuilt, go to someone who posts on here and avoid those ebay sellers of rebuilt Corvair stuff who are not spoken well of here.

Should be a used one out there that will give good service. Make a new thread with title of WTB FC transaxle.

Frank DuVal

Fredericksburg, VA



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/08/2019 09:29PM by Frank DuVal.

Thanks for all the recommendations. Fortunately I live very close to the Corvair ranch so parts availability and experienced mechanics are easy to find. They say they have a ton of transaxles used and rebuilt that I can buy. They will also rebuild mine if I would like. I’m leaning toward rebuilding mine instead of buying a used one and risking another failure. I have very little experience with transmissions so it’s probably better to watch someone else do it this time.

Carlisle Pennsylvania
--
1962 Corvair 95 Rampside
1983 Chevy C-10