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Removing front drum
Posted by: Mojan_n ()
Date: May 12, 2019 10:35PM

I’m trying to service the front brakes.
So first I need to remove the drums after reading and looking at my drum I understood that the drum is revited to the hub so in order to remove the drum I need to open the large castellated nut, right ( if I don’t what to remove the rivets)?

So now my question is this when I put the drum and hub back how tight/ torque I need on the large castellated nut?

Thank you,
Mojan

1964 Corvair Monza Coupe, 110 hp, PG
Fremont, CA



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/12/2019 10:37PM by Mojan_n.

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Re: Removing front drum
Posted by: MattNall ()
Date: May 12, 2019 10:38PM

8-10 ft lb. and then backoff to the nearest slots for the cotter pin.

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Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/13/2019 08:36AM by MattNall.

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Re: Removing front drum
Posted by: junkman ()
Date: May 13, 2019 08:35AM

If you repack or change the front wheel bearings, sometimes it requires more than 25 pounds of torque to properly seat them. When tightening the castle nut, you should be spinning the wheel with your other hand. Once there is sufficient pressure on the bearings, the wheel will be difficult to spin. Then back off of the castle nut, and give the wheel another spin, and it should spin freely. Then tighten the castle nut to 25# and back off enough to insert the cotter pin. Make sure that you bend the pin, so the wings are to the side, not over the end of the spindle. Also clip the pins leaving enough to keep the pin in place, but not so much that it can grab the radio static collector that are in the cap, assuming that you have a radio installed, and the static collectors are still installed.

PS.. the drum is held onto the hub by swaging the wheel stud in front of the brake drum. There is a special too that cuts the swaging to remove the drum from the hub. I do remember that on some Chevrolet models, that the front drums just slid over the studs, and were never swaged from the factory. You just pulled them off the studs, like with the rear drums. Not being that familiar with the front drums of the late models, they might have also been riveted.

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Re: Removing front drum
Posted by: Mojan_n ()
Date: May 13, 2019 09:18AM

I am not changing the bearings, just need to remove the hub to check the brakes.

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Re: Removing front drum
Posted by: American Mel ()
Date: May 13, 2019 09:31AM

Mojan_n Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> I am not changing the bearings, just need to remove the hub to check the brakes.


Yes.
But since you have it open, why not check, and repack if needed?

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Re: Removing front drum
Posted by: Mojan_n ()
Date: May 13, 2019 09:42AM

For sure smiling smiley

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Re: Removing front drum
Posted by: Frank DuVal ()
Date: May 13, 2019 10:00AM

Late models have loose drums, no rivets.

I do not think I have ever used 25 ft lb of torque to seat wheel bearings. But, never used a torque wrench either.winking smiley

I do like Matt, snug up the castle nut while rotating the tire or drum. Back off until the cotter pin fits. With tire mounted, check in and out movement of tire at top and bottom (side to side also checks tie rods, etc, so not a good indication of wheel bearing looseness).

Slightly too loose better than too tight when it comes to tapered roller bearings.

Of course, I learned wheel bearings on those GM cars of the 50s with ball bearing front wheel bearings! (tighten with 12" wrench....loosen... said the instructions in the owners manual)

Frank DuVal

Fredericksburg, VA

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Re: Removing front drum
Posted by: Mojan_n ()
Date: May 14, 2019 10:32AM

okay bearing adjustment is under Suspension section...

1964 Corvair Monza Coupe, 110 hp, PG
Fremont, CA

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Re: Removing front drum
Posted by: 66vairman ()
Date: May 14, 2019 11:02AM

100 in. lbs = about 8 ft. lbs.

The key statement from the manual is "NOTE: These tapered roller bearings should have zero preload from 0.000" to 0.004" end play when properly adjusted."

Basically as many said - a torque wrench is not needed to adjust the front wheel bearings since the "castle" nut is used to set the bearing end play.

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