Turboturd has always run hot, and over the years several people have suggested a possible plugged oil cooler. Back when I restored it I flushed it out with kerosene, brake cleaner and air over the course of several days to make sure it was clean. But unfortunately I have no way of knowing if it is plugged. Should I source a nos one, or would an ultrasonic cleaner do the trick if I could find one? Thanks as always!

Cody Hurley
North Idaho (Post Falls)
66 Monza convertible 140/PG, loaded with factory options
66 Corsa turbo coupe, 3rd owner fully documented [corvaircenter.com]
66 Canadian monza coupe 110/pg project car (no picture yet)
65 Monza coupe daily driver 110/4
Also 2 Ford f350 IDI diesels, three Jeep FC 170s, 1966 Jeep CJ5A, two 1954 International R-150 pickups, 5 Rokon Trailbreakers, Chrysler Snorunner, and thousands of parts

Ultrasonic should do it.

When you say "Hot" ??? Gauge reading? or something else...

Stock gauge system can be all over the map....just reference usually

HF IR Heat gun could help

MODERATOR
Sea Mountain, between Charleston Harbor and Coos Bay! SW Oregon Coast
Click HERE for My Website...Click HERE for My TechPages!
...............110-PG.................................................Webered-Turbo

I do mine in a large 600W ultrasonic unit at about 60C for several sessions but also soak and flush them many times with Oil Eater cleaner until they run clean.

I've heard the Porsche guys use this company sometimes.

[www.oilcoolers.com]

"...We are the world’s largest FAA Repair Station for aircraft oil coolers. We also service a large number of automotive oil coolers, radiators, and heat exchangers. We put the automotive units through the same exacting cleaning and repair process that the aircraft units go through, but at a fraction of the aircraft cost. The results speak for themselves, with very high quality results.

The basic overhaul cost for automotive units is $125.00 each. That is to decontaminate the inside and outside and assess any repairs that are needed. For your unit, we can either re-attach any broken off fittings that you’ve got – or machine new ones and weld them into place. Please note that the repairs are billed at our normal shop rate of $100. Per hour, on top of the standard overhaul cost of $125.00 per oil cooler. Also know that we can do a lot of work in an hour, so it is rare that anyone spends more than $225.00 for the overhaul AND the repairs, combined.

We normally will need your oil cooler for about one week to rejuvenate it. We will be happy to examine it for needed repairs and quote those to you before we begin work. No matter the case, if we can’t repair it and make it work for you (which sometimes happens if there are core leaks caused by corrosion), then there is no charge at all.

So put it in a box along with any broken parts you have that need to be welded back on and send it to us..."

Dave W. / Gilbert Arizona
65 Corsa 140/4
66 Corsa 140/4
66 Corsa 140/4 w/factory A/C
66 Corsa 455 Toro V8
65 Monza Convertible 110/4
66 Monza Convertible 140/4 A/C
65 Monza 4DR 140/PG w/factory A/C
65 Monza 4DR EJ20T/5

What temps are you seeing with an IR at the oil filter, also you can see the temp drop between the top and bottom of the cooler with an IR.

J.O.

65 Corsa Turbo Vert
79 Honda XL 500S
69 Honda CL 160 D
2010 BMW F 650 GS
2003 Bounder 36D
2013 KIA Optima SX turbo-AKA ZIPPY (wife,s car)
69 Newport Holiday Sailboat
Baja 150 dune buggy cart
Coleman HS 500 UTV
2016 KIA Sorento SXL Turbo

Bethlehem,Pa

This was the place I used as recommended by someone who also built air plane engines.
[www.ultrasoniccleaningcorp.com]

Lee J

I would think a radiator shop could help you out.
Jeff

Wildomar,Ca

1965 Corsa Hard Top sold
!965 Corsa Convertible
1968 Monza 140 Convertible 4 speed sold
1966 435 HP Crown
1986 Buick GN

I found that carb dip cleaner worked way better than anything else I tried. Filled it from the gallon can and let sit for days. Then dumped out blasted with air the rinsed with acetone. Repeated till it ran clear. If you have a 5 gallon version you could put the whole thing in.

Not sure if the new carb dip is good as the stuff I use that is 25 years old.

-Tom


63' Monza Spyder Convertable (in process) MY Build Thread
62' Wagon rebuild MY Build Thread
65' Monza MY Build Thread
73' NovaSS 454 Big block (Sold)
86' BMW 325es
67' UltraVan 211 "Violet"
NFCC, UMCC
Grand Island, NY

I don't see anything about whether "always runs hot" means high oil temperatures.
What are we, something like 30% oil cooled and 70% air cooled? Just shooting from the hip with some made up numbers.
I guess I'm going O/T from the question at hand but I'm wondering what temperatures we are talking about.
Maybe selfish, I've got a "runs hot" Turbo car to work on soon.

Jim Brandberg
Isanti, MN
CorvairRepair.com

Cody do you have an oil temp gauge or
are you seeing high head temps and thinking
it could be caused by high oil temps?

What head temp numbers do you see under
normal cruise?

best wishes, Steve
Rear Engine Spec. Inc. Golden, Colo.

1962 spyder 3.0L turbo---1965 Crown V8
1967 monza 110/4---1968 monza 110/4
1971 amante gt 110/4
CORSA/RMC/PPCC/V8 Registry

steve c goodman Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Cody do you have an oil temp gauge or
> are you seeing high head temps and thinking
> it could be caused by high oil temps?
>
> What head temp numbers do you see under
> normal cruise?


All I have is stock instrumentation. My heads are deflashed. I understand the 50 year old gauge is not overly accurate lol. Around town I'm always at 400. Highway I see 500ish, and temp climbs under boost until I back out at about 550 or so on the gauge. I definitely believe it runs hotter than my 140 as the heater works AMAZING in this car. I never have remembered to test with an infrared temp gun unfortunately.

I'm just in the middle of double checking and going through everything in attempt to finally dial it in and while the oil cooler is off I might as well do something with it

Cody Hurley
North Idaho (Post Falls)
66 Monza convertible 140/PG, loaded with factory options
66 Corsa turbo coupe, 3rd owner fully documented [corvaircenter.com]
66 Canadian monza coupe 110/pg project car (no picture yet)
65 Monza coupe daily driver 110/4
Also 2 Ford f350 IDI diesels, three Jeep FC 170s, 1966 Jeep CJ5A, two 1954 International R-150 pickups, 5 Rokon Trailbreakers, Chrysler Snorunner, and thousands of parts

Cody if your head temp was really 500
degrees it would be extremely prone
to detonation and would exhibit other
'hot' maladies such as run on/loss of
power etc. Can I suggest that your
head temp is simply reading higher
than normal?

Normally your 550 degree mark would
excite the temp warning buzzer and again
high temps would make the engine very
balky and detonate constantly. GM was
predicting melt down at 500+ degrees
for a period of time too. Ring failure
and/or seat ring failure would/should
be common for you too.

Also head temp can be high and oil temp
normal OR oil temp high and head temp
normal. The two aren't necessarily
tied together.

Obviously the above is my opinion only.
Good luck chasing the culprit.

best wishes, Steve
Rear Engine Spec. Inc. Golden, Colo.

1962 spyder 3.0L turbo---1965 Crown V8
1967 monza 110/4---1968 monza 110/4
1971 amante gt 110/4
CORSA/RMC/PPCC/V8 Registry

Quote
Cody
But unfortunately I have no way of knowing if it is plugged.

If you can blow a few psi of air through it, it is not plugged. It can still be dirty and not efficiently transferring oil heat to air heat, though. But if you can leave Acetone or some solvent in it for a few days and it pours out close to clear, should be great.

Frank DuVal

Fredericksburg, VA