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Re: OT - Need Help ASAP with oil fired furnace - 10F outside
Posted by: John Luscinski ()
Date: January 11, 2019 07:59AM

The reason why it is shuting down is the temp is to high.. You are air bound or there is reason why the water is not circulating.. Ask me how I know! I have seen them all.. Also it could be water system is blocked.. going into the system.. Water feed.

You should call me.

"Been there and done that! Well Not everything.smiling smiley
65 500 2dr Coupe
63 Greenbrier

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Re: OT - Need Help ASAP with oil fired furnace - 10F outside
Posted by: jjohnsonjo ()
Date: January 11, 2019 09:18AM

I agree, it sounds like an over temp shut down. I would hot wire the circulator pump for a while. You can purge it without the furnace running. Also, do you have any zone controls. I locked all mine open, more trouble than they are worth. If the all stick shut, you will have no circulation.

J.O.

65 Corsa Turbo Vert
79 Honda XL 500S
69 Honda CL 160 D
2010 BMW F 650 GS
2003 Bounder 36D
2013 KIA Optima SX turbo-AKA ZIPPY (wife,s car)
69 Newport Holiday Sailboat
Baja 150 dune buggy cart
Coleman HS 500 UTV
2016 KIA Sorento SXL Turbo

Bethlehem,Pa

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Re: OT - Need Help ASAP with oil fired furnace - 10F outside
Posted by: Caraholic4life ()
Date: January 11, 2019 12:57PM

I have a oil fired baseboard system in my house. I seem to recall being told that there is a "Eye" or glass lens that looks for the flame.
Sometimes it gets dirty and misreads which in turn can cause problems.
Typically I had my old boiler serviced at the beginning of the season every year but a couple times let it go for two seasons.
It is very important that the units be maintained and cleaned on a regular basis or they simply will not be as efficient.
Two years ago I replaced my 1970's vintage boiler that was at 79% efficiency for a newer, more modern unit and so far am very happy with it.
I bought a Burnham RSA boiler made in Pennsylvania.

Another thing to keep in mind is if your system has an automatic valve of some sort for the incoming water source, it can (depending on water quality and age) become corroded and stick closed. This is only an issue if you are bleeding water out of the system and no replenishment occurs due to a stuck inlet valve.

1962 95 F.C. Van
1965 Monza Coupe
Westminster, Maryland

MID ENG enthusiast &
prior Kelmark owner.

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Re: OT - Need Help ASAP with oil fired furnace - 10F outside
Posted by: OttawaCorvairGuy ()
Date: January 11, 2019 01:00PM

UPDATE and Thanks to everyone...

I spent a good part of today purging the system of air.
Due to the fact that we need the heat and everything is so hot, from the system running, I had to do a little at a time.
It is not a good thing to introduce a lot of cold water into the system, when it is hot.
That could cause damage, with such a quick temperature change to metal objects.
So I took little baby steps and purged a little each time the heat kicked on.

It's not 100%, maybe 98%. ggg
But it is running a lot better with hardly any noise when the water is circulating.

BTW - I had to do this back in 2010-2012 when we first got the place.
THE PO let the system freeze and a lot of the sections of the baseboard heating system were replaced due to cracks.
Whoever installed them back then - never purged the system correctly.
That is how I learned what to do. A crash course. GGG

This spring - summer I will be making some improvements to the system that should make it easier on us.

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Re: OT - Need Help ASAP with oil fired furnace - 10F outside
Posted by: OttawaCorvairGuy ()
Date: January 11, 2019 01:10PM

Caraholic4life Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> I have a oil fired baseboard system in my house. I
> seem to recall being told that there is a "Eye" or
> glass lens that looks for the flame.
> Sometimes it gets dirty and misreads which in turn
> can cause problems.
> Typically I had my old boiler serviced at the
> beginning of the season every year but a couple
> times let it go for two seasons.
> It is very important that the units be maintained
> and cleaned on a regular basis or they simply will
> not be as efficient.
> Two years ago I replaced my 1970's vintage boiler
> that was at 79% efficiency for a newer, more
> modern unit and so far am very happy with it.
> I bought a Burnham RSA boiler made in
> Pennsylvania.
>
> Another thing to keep in mind is if your system
> has an automatic valve of some sort for the
> incoming water source, it can (depending on water
> quality and age) become corroded and stick closed.
> This is only an issue if you are bleeding water
> out of the system and no replenishment occurs due
> to a stuck inlet valve.


Saw your post after I had written my and posted it.

We too have a Burnham 06/98 and were told it is not worth the money to change it out at this time.
We were told that this unit is efficient enough and we would not gain much more efficiency with a newer unit and that it would take too long to get our money back.

I plan to do a lot of maintenance this year.
Because we are on well water I also plan to flush the boiler with higher water pressure to clean out any sediment.
I plan to also replace the pressure control valve with a new one and add in a one-way water supply valve at the same time.

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Re: OT - Need Help ASAP with oil fired furnace - 10F outside
Posted by: boekeloo ()
Date: January 11, 2019 02:00PM

Here are a couple items I have on my baseboard/in floor system that have worked perfectly. The Taco combo pressure valve with check valve ensures you will keep the system full and the spirovent jr constantly scrubs the water for air. The output from the taco valve connects to the bottom of the spirovent so any fill water is immediately scrubbed for air.

supplyhouse.com has great prices for these items.

Attachments:

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Re: OT - Need Help ASAP with oil fired furnace - 10F outside
Posted by: Frank DuVal ()
Date: January 11, 2019 02:45PM

Quote
OCGuy
Adding the one-way valve should help to keep the air from getting into the system when I go to change out that filter

Because???

The only place for air to enter the system when the filter is out is the filter housing which now has air in it. Is there air entering the system on the other side of the proposed one way valve? I hope not!

If drain back is what you are worried about (and that lets air go forward in the system from the open filter housing) you need some ball valves. Shut off ball valves, replace filter, bleed filter (if it has a bleed valve, my large one does) then turn valves back on. Still get air in upstairs fixtures, but a manageable amount.

Putting one way valves in systems without thought can lead to overpressurizing pipes/ appliances when water is heated. If a system is built with a backflow preventer (one way valve) and there is an appliance to heat water in the circuit, there is a mandatory expansion tank, like a small Well-X-Trol designed to prevent water heaters from exploding.eye popping smiley

Frank DuVal

Fredericksburg, VA

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Re: OT - Need Help ASAP with oil fired furnace - 10F outside
Posted by: boekeloo ()
Date: January 11, 2019 02:59PM

I know Chicago has some stringent codes but a expansion tank is required on a closed loop heating system. My tank is installed below my Spirovent on a T with the fresh water input. I also have a potable expansion tank on my water heater also, which serves as my boiler through side taps and heat transfer plate.

Air is certainly introduce during any maintenance of filters, pumps or for some reason after the system sits unused for the cooling season.

Also, the check valve is required to prevent the closed loop water feeding back into the potable water supply should the pressure drop below that of the closed loop.

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Re: OT - Need Help ASAP with oil fired furnace - 10F outside
Posted by: Murphy ()
Date: January 11, 2019 05:28PM

The one-way valve you speak of, I have known them to be called a backflow preventer. It keeps boiler water from mixing with domestic (drinking) water.

65 Monza Coupe
61 500 Coupe-W100181
Earliest '61?




Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/11/2019 05:30PM by Murphy.

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Re: OT - Need Help ASAP with oil fired furnace - 10F outside
Posted by: OttawaCorvairGuy ()
Date: January 11, 2019 08:12PM

Murphy Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> The one-way valve you speak of, I have known them
> to be called a backflow preventer. It keeps boiler
> water from mixing with domestic (drinking) water.


Yes

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Re: OT - Need Help ASAP with oil fired furnace - 10F outside
Posted by: rowin4 ()
Date: January 12, 2019 06:24PM

As I recall my whole house filter had a shut off valve built in at the top, just turn it and it shut the water off both ways. It also had button to drain the air while refilling, thus, no air in the system.

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Re: OT - Need Help ASAP with oil fired furnace - 10F outside
Posted by: OttawaCorvairGuy ()
Date: January 12, 2019 08:42PM

rowin4 Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> As I recall my whole house filter had a shut off
> valve built in at the top, just turn it and it
> shut the water off both ways. It also had button
> to drain the air while refilling, thus, no air in
> the system.


Mine has a shut off. It does not have any drain.
There are two times when air is introduced.
First time is when you open a faucet to suck some of the water out of the cannister, so it does not make a mess with water overflowing all over the place when you go to change the filter.
The second time is when the cannister has to fill up with new water after the new filter has been installed.
There is air in the cannister.

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Re: OT - Need Help ASAP with oil fired furnace - 10F outside
Posted by: JohnVan ()
Date: January 13, 2019 03:30AM

OttawaCorvairGuy Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> rowin4 Wrote:
> --------------------------------------------------
> -----
> > As I recall my whole house filter had a shut
> off
> > valve built in at the top, just turn it and it
> > shut the water off both ways. It also had
> button
> > to drain the air while refilling, thus, no air
> in
> > the system.
>
>
> Mine has a shut off. It does not have any drain.
> There are two times when air is introduced.
> First time is when you open a faucet to suck some
> of the water out of the cannister, so it does not
> make a mess with water overflowing all over the
> place when you go to change the filter.
> The second time is when the cannister has to fill
> up with new water after the new filter has been
> installed.
> There is air in the cannister.

Before you change the filter, fill a jug with fresh water. Use that water to pre-fill the canister and eliminate most of the air.

John

John Van Valkenburgh
Knightdale NC
'65 Corsa 140

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