Jacked rear of car up and got it on jack stands.

Pulled rear tires/wheels. Pulled brake drums and found lots of brake dust. Remnants from my trip on Tail of the Dragon.

Shoes look good with over 1/4" shoe material remaining. Not bad for 17k miles and a trip through 11 miles of many curves & elevation changes (318 curves in 11 miles).

Will do thorough inspection tomorrow of drums and shoes. I do know park brake needs adjustment.

Al
Georgia

Lane66m Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> Glad I found the NOS ones.

SCORE

J.O.

65 Corsa Turbo Vert
79 Honda XL 500S
69 Honda CL 160 D
2010 BMW F 650 GS
2003 Bounder 36D
2023 KIA K5 GT/GT1 turbo-AKA ZIPPY II (wife,s car)
69 Newport Holiday Sailboat
Baja 150 dune buggy cart
Coleman HS 500 UTV
2016 KIA Sorento SXL Turbo

Bethlehem,Pa

Yes, it is. J.O. Pricing with free shipping was similar to pricing of the finned drums plus shipping. Best thing, they were about 150 miles west of my place. Not much chance for shipping gorillas to destroy them

Al
Georgia

Rear brakes all checked out. Just some sanding to remove glazing and adjustment for the wear that occurred since last adjustment.

We did a color check of the fluid in the MC. A slight yellowing has occurred since System was serviced in 2019.

Tomorrow, we will bleed system and drain fluid at each wheel, until we are sure no fluid within 18 inches of the lines remain. I will be confident that no fluid that got hot will be in the system then.

Al
Georgia

Completed the draining and bleeding today. Installed tires/wheels and went for a road check. The right front lock up issue is reolved and brakes are good enought to drive the car. Except I still have the right pull issue. So it was not drums or shoes issue,

I suspect front brake hoses, so I have ordered 2 front brake hoses even though these only have 4 1/2 years on the car. I bought them for the coupe in 2011, so I have to suspect left one is failing. My suspicion is when i was backing up and applying brakes on fairly new pavement, the right brake would squawk, but left tire would not. I think the left hose may be restricting fluid movement. I could be wrong, but have to try the change. During bleeding, I did not notice a significant difference in the fluid being expelled in the bleed hose. But visible fluid movement in the bleed hose may not be telling.

We will see after the hose change next week. But it is drivable again.

Al
Georgia

Reading Al, I have all new everything now and I am not a parts swapper. I move stuff from side to side when can. Still not working. All I can say is that Russel speed bleeders are worth every penny.

J.O.

65 Corsa Turbo Vert
79 Honda XL 500S
69 Honda CL 160 D
2010 BMW F 650 GS
2003 Bounder 36D
2023 KIA K5 GT/GT1 turbo-AKA ZIPPY II (wife,s car)
69 Newport Holiday Sailboat
Baja 150 dune buggy cart
Coleman HS 500 UTV
2016 KIA Sorento SXL Turbo

Bethlehem,Pa

Same here on not being a parts changer. I had to find issues first before I change parts. Right front showed shoes not wearing right. Then found drum warped. That necessitated change of shoes and drum on right front. Left change-out happened to keep systems equally balanced. Was not going to change hose until it was last thing and then with some justification due to its age.

I will look into those speed bleeders.

Al
Georgia

Received front hoses yesterday afternoon. I hope to get them installed today.

I checked the hose date and it is 02-10-21. I didn't expect a much better date since hose assemly manufacture is based on hose manufacture date of the hose in Dorman stock and then a demand on Dorman for a group of same part numbered hose assemblies using that hose size.

Al
Georgia

Al, if it still acts up, the the hard, harder, very hard test right before you drive and then at the first few full stops. Let me know

J.O.

65 Corsa Turbo Vert
79 Honda XL 500S
69 Honda CL 160 D
2010 BMW F 650 GS
2003 Bounder 36D
2023 KIA K5 GT/GT1 turbo-AKA ZIPPY II (wife,s car)
69 Newport Holiday Sailboat
Baja 150 dune buggy cart
Coleman HS 500 UTV
2016 KIA Sorento SXL Turbo

Bethlehem,Pa

My intent is to put a hose pincher near the top of each front hose, then use a hose cutter to cut it close to the wheel cylinder fitting. I will quickly install a plug into the hose. Then I can replace the cylinder end fitting and install the new hose at cylinder port.

I will prefill new hose with a syringe to reduce need for lots of brake pedal action to bleed it. Then I will take old hose with plug removed and insert it in a clear container and see how the flow is coming out of the hose. I will then put plug back in. Then remove hard line & clip to remove old hose from car. New hose will be clipped into bracket and hard line attached. Bleeding of that sise would be last.

I think I can do this with out removing tire/wheel, with only jacking car at body point and steering it to gain access to hose.

It may seem involved, but it may give me an answer to which side was causing the issue by a bad hose. Left side being done first.

Al
Georgia

Replaced left front brake hose today. I had to turn car around and noticed when I braked, the right front would droop first on brake application at the slow manuverering speed. Not sure if it signifies much. I did the flow test on the old hose and flow look normal on the 2 pumps. Nothing gained there.

The old hose was made in 06/09, so it was 13 years and 6 months old. Probably could have stayed on the car for a while longer from what I can tell. It was not hard or brittle.

Test drive on my dirt driveway after the hose change didn't indicate any abnormalities during braking at slow speed. I took it down the road and at 20 MPH or more, car would still pull to the right. Can't say it is any better or worse since brakes were not used much.

Al
Georgia



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/08/2022 04:26PM by Lane66m.

It sounds like the right front brake shoes are not fully releasing, so that a light tap on the pedal immediately engages them causing the right front of the car to dip.

When you get to changing the right front hose that may relieve the issue as the hose may be partially obstructed. Only other thing I can think of is a frozen wheel cylinder piston, but I know you have bled the brakes and would have picked it up then.

One thing I’ve learned with Corvairs is that something not working the way it should always has a cause which becomes obvious only after the solution has been found.

Fred Gillam, southern SC coast
Former Corvairs from teens and 20's.
3 65 Corsa 180 convertibles
63 Spyder
66 Monza 110 PG, "Moldo"
65 Corsa 140
Currently helping son with 65 Monza 140 4-spd coupe

Iinstalled a hose pincher on the right front hose and cut hose below it. Removed the old hose fitting from the wheel cylinder. Installed new hose with gasket to wheel cylinder.

On hold until Donna becomes available with flow check and bleeding.

Right front brake hose is dated 05/09. It is still flexible.

For those interested in the hose part number and where I got them. Here is the info.

Dorman: H36528 - Brake Hydraulic Hose, ultimate_auto_parts @ ebay. $10.03 each
[www.ebay.com]

Al
Georgia

Just completed work on right front brake hose and bled the brake. The old hose did not flow same amount of fluid as the left side. So it was collapsing.

I took car out for a check and it did much better. No quick swerve to the right. There is a slow swerve to the right that I believe will be solved by replacing the overheated rear brake shoes. One set is squeaking every now and then. Donna says it is the left rear making noise.

At least the car is manageable to drive now.

Al
Georgia



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/10/2022 12:45PM by Lane66m.

Changed rear brakes as they were squeaking quite noticeably. Put back on the rear brakes that was on it when I bought it which had no issues. I drove it to town yesterday and found squeak is gone, but swerving to right is back with a vengeance when brakes are cold and less so when warm. All new drums, hoses, rebuilt wheel cylinder, properly installed shoes. I am going to adjust the left brake as it may not be adjusted as tight as the right. But I am going to look for some disc brake brackets and get rid of this dang system. So if you have a set of Scarebird brackets not going to be used, let me know,

Accerator sticking is back. On the drive to town, I had to keep kicking the pedal to get it back to idle. When parked at the house and shut down engine, I opened the hood. I gently operated the left carb rod about 1/4". When I let go, it failed to come back to idle. I had to lightly move it back. Feels like binding in engine linkage Plenty of spring pressure. I will be taking system apart to find the issue. This is a Roger Parent's produced system, so I will report what I find.

Al
Georgia



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/10/2023 05:53AM by Lane66m.

Donna and I just discussed the brake issue. After all the work we have done, we both agree, it time to give up on trying to fix the sporadic right swerve issue that has plague this car since we got it.

We have now decided to quickly get a front disc brakes kit, get it installed and tested before Corvair SpringFest in Helen GA next month. No time to look for brackets. Kit from Clark's on order.

Spare hubs being pulled from container for machining. 68 Camaro front disce/rear drum master cylinder in Coupe bin will be pulled for this project. So this project should get started in earnest next week.

I will work sticking accelerator today, since it is raining here today.

Al
Georgia

Al,

Look forward to seeing you in Helen. Booked our rooms this week.
I may have missed it in this well written thread, but can you tell me how the alignment turned out front/back?

Thanks,

Mike

1966 Monza Convertible, 140HP-4 speed, Ermine White
1969 Monza Convertible, 110HP-PG, Frost Green

Black Mountain,NC

Others in the menagerie...
72 Corvette Stingray, 58K miles, owned since 87
72 MGB, 112K miles, bought from original owner in 09
78 Chevy pickup, 124K miles, bought new in 78
93 Corvette, LT1/6spd, 210K miles, daily driver since 96
02, Chevy Z71, 4x4, 93K miles, my Dad's truck, inherited 2021

Alignment is fine. They did little tweeaks and it no longer pulls.

Moved the left carb linkage and resistance no longer evident. Inspected accelerator system on engine and the carbs. No issues found.

Worked on left front brake and got it as tight as possible with wheel still able to rotate.

Drove car and swerve still evident, but not so pronounced. Pull up emergency brake until brakes started to drag at 25 mph. Applied foot brake and right front brake locked up immediately I am done with the front brakes, they will be replaced with disc brakes. I will sell off these NOS drums and other parts at Helen.

When I parked in the yard, the engine rpm was high again with foot off the pedal. I could not kick it down. Opened hood and tried quick hand movements of linkage and still stayed high. I had to pull up on left carb linkage to get idle back to normal. I checked with air intake off and on for interference and there is none. What is in the carb could cause this?

Al
Georgia

Al, did you put a caliper or mic on the spindle where the bearings ride. Sometimes they wear out of round over the years and cause weird problems.

J.O.

65 Corsa Turbo Vert
79 Honda XL 500S
69 Honda CL 160 D
2010 BMW F 650 GS
2003 Bounder 36D
2023 KIA K5 GT/GT1 turbo-AKA ZIPPY II (wife,s car)
69 Newport Holiday Sailboat
Baja 150 dune buggy cart
Coleman HS 500 UTV
2016 KIA Sorento SXL Turbo

Bethlehem,Pa

J.O.

Those were a set of 34k spindles I put on the car Tried the bearings dry before I put them in the hub. They seemed fine. I saw a set of worn spindles in my days of driving old cars when I couldn't afford newer cars while in Marines. Yep some weird driving issues. But I will check them before the disc brackets are put on.

Al
Georgia