They are 6.3. I have a several boxes of5.3, 6.3 and 8.3 bolts from when I bought out a True Value store hardware cabinets for the cabinets. I had to buy the hardware with the them. My boxed 6.3 bolts are the same.

The 6.3 bolt is slightly smaller than a 1/4 bolt. Too sloppy in clamp hole also. 8.3 would be same as 5/16. I have those in 8.3 but I want a higher grade n9n-metric bolt on steering. Can you imagine the frustration of the alignment person grabbing the 1/2 wrench and it works on on tie rod but not the other. He needs a 13 mm wrench now. I won't do it. I hate items which have the standard of hardware interchanged on them.

Al
Georgia

An internet search came up with no machine screws in 6.3mm. I did find that some sheet metal type screws are 6.3mm but nothing in 8.3. I had never seen that before. Nothing on True Value's site either.

Joel
Northlake, TX
5 Ultravans, 145 Corvairs and counting...

Maybe misread numbers on top. But they are size 6 metric bolts.

Got the final parts cleaned and painted. Spindles, front stabilizer links, rear spring cups, rear control arm bracket. Also painted up some rear axles parts for a friend who locked up his right rear. I have all the parts needed to assemble them. Rick & I will build up the assemblies next week.

Installed 5/1-24 bolts into tie rod clamps. Pressed rear torque arm bushings in.

Al
Georgia

While heading home after doing errands with the More Door, I heard a loud pop/bang, then a loud noise under car. Then about 20 seconds later, a loud scraping noise by left front wheel. I got off the interstate and pulled onto some grass. I found the gas tank strap dragging on the ground still hooked to left subframe. Since there was no right hook bolt, I suspected either the standard nut came off or the right hook broke. I drove the remaining 14 miles home with the tank sitting on the front stabilizer bar.

Figuring a easy fix, I grabbed the strap and hook bolts from my Coupe. Jacked the front up and set it on jack stands. I got a big surprise when I tried to hook the right hook bolt onto the support loop. It was torn open. So now I have to devise a repair for the support loop. Rick and I have several ideas with the last resort is calling in a welder.

Worst part is the tank is now full, minus 25 miles driving home. So about 12 gallons is in it that has to be drained.

Well good time to get the suspension project started on this Vair, since stabilizer bar is coming down to get tank out to access area to do a repair. I have all bushings installed, except for the upper control arms. I will finish them tomorrow.

Al
Georgia

Glad you made it home OK. These cars never cease to find ways to make routine drives interesting. Without my son’s car around to look at I don’t know what kind of accessibility is behind that loop. It might be possible to replace it with a galvanized loop that could bolt in place if you could get the bolts and nuts in place.
I’m looking forward to seeing how you repair this and will check the loops on my son’s car.
Thanks for sharing your experiences!

Fred Gillam, southern SC coast
Former Corvairs from teens and 20's.
3 65 Corsa 180 convertibles
63 Spyder
66 Monza 110 PG, "Moldo"
65 Corsa 140
Currently helping son with 65 Monza 140 4-spd coupe

Box subframe has about 3/4" clearance to tank. Loop extends out about 1/2" from subframe. Looking at putting a bracket there that the hook bolt can hook into. We plan to use blind bolts or cherry max rivets to secure to subframe.

Al
Georgia

We started on the front suspension removal yesterday evening. Tie rods, idler arm, pitman bolt, center steering link, front drums and front hubs have been removed.

Next up, drain the gas tank, so I can remove stabilizer bar. It is sitting in it, due to failed hanger strap on subframe.

Then I can get stabilizer off and move onto getting backing plates, steering arms and springs out.

Al
Georgia

Removed the gas from the tank today.

We got the stabilizer bar off. Then it was wrestling time get the hose clamps off. Hoses needed to be changed due to cracking. I will be using Gates Barricade on the vent hose.

Removed the backing plated and steering arms. Thunderstorms moved in, so I called it a day working in that lean=-to surrounded my steel fencing.

I did remove the gas tank sender to see if I learn anything on why gauge read 1/4 tank when only 7 gallons was used. I found the reason. The float has about an ounce of gasoline in it.

Getting another Clark's order put together.

Al
Georgia

Developed a new bracket for the gas tank strap hook bolt. It can be welded on Cherry Max'd on or thru bolted on like the idler arm. The vertical portion has to be trimmed back about 40% of its height. I will install this bracket on the left side also.

Called the welder I use and he is not available for quite awhile to do small tasks like this. Got one more welder to ask. If not, I will thru bolt it on.

Al
Georgia

Cherry Max'd ?
Not familiar with this term, Al.
Can you enlighten me?

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WA. state, 1 mile south of the Canadian border, I am not at the end of the world, but you can see it from here.

Cherry Aerospace Maxibolts are primarily used in structures where higher loads are required. The steel version is 112 KSI shear. 

Al
Georgia

Thank You!

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WA. state, 1 mile south of the Canadian border, I am not at the end of the world, but you can see it from here.

Special tools required to pull them.

Al
Georgia

Yes, I saw that on their website.
Isn't it a bit late for you to be up, Al?

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WA. state, 1 mile south of the Canadian border, I am not at the end of the world, but you can see it from here.

I was just headed to bed after watching TV. Decided to check the forum one last time.

Al
Georgia

Pulled shocks, springs, spindles and upper control arms. Marked camber bolt position to cross member. Removed camber bolts and lower arms. Installed.lower arms and camber bolts. Aligned marks and tightened camber bolts.

Installed rubber bushings in front stabilizer attach link. Removed steel bushings from old staabilizer to use. Cancel the idea. Had good rubber bushings nuts and bolts. Seems a PO replaced everything but the steel bushings. Found a good set from my coupe's old hardware I saved. Assembled front stabilizer bushings and attach links to it.

Got the design for replacement gas tank hanger support determined. Will produce brackets this week.

Al
Georgia

Received upper control arm bushings from Clark's this afternoon. The ones I got off eBay had a hole size of .53, which is too large for the Vair cross shafts .500.

Installed cross shafts and bushings in upper control arms.

Installed upper control arm, lower control arm, spring and front strut rod on right side.

Good progress this afternoon in 3 hours. Hope to complete right side and install left side components to include tires & wheels tomorrow. Steering components and stabilizer bar will be held off until replacement gas tank support brackets are installed.

Al
Georgia

Installed right side backing plate, hub, brake drum and shock.

Installed left side upper control arm, lower control arm, spring, front strut rod, backing plate, hub, brake drum and shock. Front suspension is finished.

Started installing steering parts. Idler arm, center link and both tie rod assemblies are assembled. Needs torque and cotter pins applied to all nuts. Final connection to Pitman arm still needed.

Rick stopped by to help manufacture 2 new brackets to replace sub-frame straps for the gas tank strap hook bolts. We got them manufactured and installed on the sub-frame. 2 5/16" grip-serts, split washers and bolts for each bracket.

Taking a break tomorrow from the Vair to help Rick install some windows in his Musketeer aircraft.

Al
Georgia

Assembled the tie rod assemblies , center link to Idler arm and Pitman arm. Found a major interference with the left inner tier rod grease fitting to the lower control arm mount bracket.

Disassembled steering linkage and started measuring tie rod thicknesses, idler arm lengths and found nothing that could attribute to the hitting I was having. This mount bracket had been hit numerous times from the marks on it, but I never experienced any catch in the steering. Probably because of all the bad rubber bushing in it kept it from happening.

Decided to remove pitman arm to compare it to other arms I have. I removed a 3857006 from the More Door. My Coupe has a 3857006 on its rebuilt gearbox and the coupe's removed box has a 3857006 arm. No hint here of what it could be the issue. I scrounged my bin of scrap steering parts and found another Pitman arm 6255787. It is for a 60 - 64 steering box. Comparing it to the 66 steering arms, It is 1/2" shorter. I installed this arm and reinstalled the tie rods and center steering link. A light hit was still evident. I made a divot in the mount to allow grease fitting to pass by it. So the steering system is now installed.

Installed gas tank, hoses and strap. Still waiting parts from Clark's to install sender. Removed sender float is bad and o-ring is rotted.

Still have to install front stabilizer.

Jacked up rear of car to start rear suspension rework. Rear tires are off and under car. We got right suspension completely removed this evening.

Al
Georgia

Yard work day, so limited time on the More Door.

We got the right rear torque arm and its body bracket installed. Right spring, spring cup and spring cup rubber also installed. Right rear control arm/strut and its differential bracket installed. Small progress.

Al
Georgia