Pulled all tires/wheels today to wash off brakes and brake drums. Seems it was pulling right slowly when applying brakes. Found a small leak on left front wheel cylinder, so I pulled it this time to hone it. Last time I hone it on the car. Found a rough spot that I missed previously. New seals and back in it went. Installed all drums after they dried. Adjusted left rear 3 clicks as it was easy to remove as compared to others. Bled the brake and took a test drive. Stops straight in a hard stop at 25 and 45 mph.

Dropped rear tire pressure to 32 psi last night on our trip to supper to see if it would affect the remaining bounce in the rear. Sure enough a dramatic change was made. No longer driving around on basketballs that bounce on rough and rippled roads.

Still have an issue with hot air coming from the heater when heat is selected to full cold. Have to figure that out. Right now running with vents open dissipates what heat gets in.

Going to run speaker wire tomorrow to rear package tray area. I have speakers and boxes on the way according to emails for the orders I placed.

Al
Georgia

Just finished up at Goodyear.

Tires are balanced again. Learned that trim rings throw tires out of balance by 3/4 ounce inside and outside, if not on wheels when tires are balanced. Tires are now. Balanced all 4 with trim rings where previous 2 times they were not. Still running 32 psi in rears.

Also had alignment redone. The technician who did tires also did alignment. A guy in his 60s who is knowledgeable in the old cars. He fixed up the alignment so all setting are in specs. Only one out is rear camber and it is at -0.2 degrees. Not adjustable and I am not going to worry about it.

Test drove it up to 70 mph and it is the best it has rode since in owned it. Ready for summer driving once I get the radio in it.

Al
Georgia

Rear camber not adjustable? Since when?
I thought this was a LM.

Joel
Northlake, TX
5 Ultravans, 145 Corvairs and counting...

Joel, lower is an Eccentric....bushings are not rigid. -0.2 is nothing.... in todays world most of us run - 1. Cars are much more stable in highspeed corners, lane changes.

MODERATOR
Sea Mountain, between Charleston Harbor and Coos Bay! SW Oregon Coast
Click HERE for My Website...Click HERE for My TechPages!
...............110-PG.................................................Webered-Turbo

Picked up a ATO fuse block with 4 fuse slots for the More Door. I already have a 2 individual fuses under the dash and 2 more are needed for lighter and radio. Easier to mount 1 block and wire it up for needed circuits. Also neater than having 4 fuse capsules hanging under the dash. Thinking of relay controlling lighter so dash cam can turn On & off when plugged into it.

Al
Georgia

Received connectors, speakers and speaker boxes for the radio project. It will continue tomorrow after I install the Greenbrier Dual MC.

Al
Georgia

Since I changed the front springs, I have had a spring type noise in the front when car is bounced. I made sure the spring ends had 1/2" clearance from the stop in the lower control arm.

Today, I found the left sway bar bushing was not in place. I took it apart and put it back where it belonged and tightened hardware. Don't know why it moved out. I also sprayed PB blaster over the control arms and sway bar bushing. I also sprayed down the spring tower area. none off it help. It looks like the springs are rubbing the front of the tower.

I suspect rubber bushings are shot and need replacing. But no time to do it with other projects needing to be finished first. It is, what it is. It still drives good.

Al
Georgia

Picked up 51 feet of 4 conductor speaker wire for the radio project. Will try to run wire tomorrow under carpet to package shelf. Should be enough wire to do both Vairs and the Camaro.

Al
Georgia

Didn't get to rear seat speaker wiring today due to rear spring change out on my golf cart. Also had to tie in rear seat foot panel hitch into frame of cart. Bad design relying on seat rail and 1/8" tie straps to foot panel to carry the load..

Anyway, we did clean up the trunk from the split brake fluid and repainted the trunk metal. Looks much better than seeing bare and spotted metal.

Al
Georgia

Removed old bushings from a set of spare front control arms yesterday. bushings in spare rear torque arms were removed a couple months ago.

Getting parts together to do suspension on this Vair next.

Al
Georgia

Received ball joints, tire rod rebuild kit, and upper control arm bushings today. It will be a slow process to get parts I need for a minimum rebuild on the suspension on this Vair. 4 sources being used to keep costs down. This rebuild will use best hardware from all the suspension I disassembled. No new hardware except locking washers and lock nuts.

Al
Georgia

Cleaned and painted a set of rear torque arms today. A little bit at a time on this project. Can't get parts I need, so there is no rush.

Al
Georgia

This morning I put the rubber weatherstrips on the front edge of the rear door windows. There was a high pitch wind noise from the left side and could be stop by pressing on the rear window.

Took the More Door to the polling place about 6 miles away and noise no longer there. Wonders will happen when 50 year old hard rubber is replaced.

Al
Georgia

I got the suspension pieces painted up in preparation for when the last few pieces I need hit my home.

Al
Georgia

Found more parts to clean and pain to get ready for the More Doors suspension rework. Spindles, steering arms, stabilizer clamps, rear suspension brackets.

Al
Georgia

Painted inboard brackets for rear control rod (strut). Cleaned and applied Rust Fix to a set of steering arms and front stabilizer clamps. Little by little good used parts are being assembled for the suspension project.

I will grabbed the rear stabilizer Rods and front strut rods I have for sale to use on this car. Rear control rods (struts) are ready to go as there were done for the Coupe until I bought PMT rods for it.

I will try to get front spindles, rear stabilizer rods' inboard brackets and rear torque arm brackets cleaned and painted today.

Al
Georgia

Only cleaned spindles yesterday. Spent a lot of time with tail lights in Greenbrier.

Al
Georgia



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/27/2020 04:38AM by Lane66m.

Spent a little time on this partly rainy day working on a small oil leak. Started a while back and was leaving a black area on rear grille to the left of center. I supported the engine remove the engine mount cove, mount bracket and skid plate. Oil was dipping oil pump so, the bolts were checked. Nothing found there. A good wash down and blown dry with compressd air. Engine mount brackt was installed and secured.

Engine was started and a leak was noted on the left stud for the mount bracket. It was confirmed tight. Finally a leak was noted up on the bottom of the oil cooler. A quick check of the bolt revealed it needed 1 1/4 turns to stop the leak. Another quick wash with mineral spirits and dried with compressed air. Engine run a couple more minutes and confirmed leak was resolved. Engine and grille was put back together.

Al
Georgia

We put the ball joints and bumpers into the upper control arms. Also assembled the tie rods. On one sleeve, vendor supplied M6.3 bolts and nuts with for the clamps. Too small for my liking when inserted in clamp holes. Also, don't need no stinking metric hardware on this old car. Have to match hardware on other sleeve, I Will get some 5/16-24 grade 5 bolts for the clamps tomorrow.

Al
Georgia

Metric bolts generally come in even sizes 6mm, 8mm etc. The grade markings are 5.8, 8.8, 10.9 and 12.9. Not sure what 6.3 is but it must be an oddball grade. If you are replacing them with 5/16 they are probably 8mm.
Something shook loose in the rusty memory. 6.3 does seem like a metric grade I've seen before in butter bolts.

Joel
Northlake, TX
5 Ultravans, 145 Corvairs and counting...




Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/18/2020 10:50PM by joelsplace.